South America (part six)
Peruvian Perambulations
Following our return to the boat in the Rio Chone at Bahia, we had a couple of excitements. The Mayor of Bahia decided to organise a tour of the town by "bus" for all the cruisers, followed by a reception in his office. At that time there were a total of 8 boats anchored (16 couples) - 3 English, 1 Canadian, 1 Australian and 3 American. The Mayor (a young doctor, who turned up to the reception in his work clothes) was keen to attract more cruisers to the town so was seeking information on how to do that. We were presented with drinks, certificates welcoming us to the town, and one lucky person won a small ornamental boat carved from tagua nut - it was Rosie! A consolation after losing our other souvenirs of Ecuador! A couple of days later, landing our dinghy by the Capitania we found ourselves shaking hands with the wife of the President of Ecuador who was on an official visit to Bahia! The time came for us to move on, and sadly say goodbye to those boats which were heading for Galapagos. We hope to meet up with them again, in paticular Liz and Robert on "Dragons Rose" and Dave and Anne on "Adagio". Our passage south to the Puerto Lucia Yacht Club was motoring all the way, the only event a rather too close encounter with fishing nets at night - fortunately lit with flashing lights - which were spotted in time by Rosie. In record time we delegated the lifting of the boat from the water and preparation for painting to George Stewart, a Canadian who is in charge of work done in the boatyard here, whilst we flew off to (Click here for a map) Peru. We allowed ourselves a fortnight which we now know was not nearly enough, and in spite of colds and stomach upsets really enjoyed the country and its people. We decided not to stop in Lima, and flew on the day we arrived to Arequipa. We stayed in a lovely 18th century colonial house, at one time the residence of the Bishop of Arequipa, now a hostel. Whilst there Jim enjoyed roast guinea pig - it was the tiny paws and face that put me off, although it did taste rather good! I chewed my way through an alpaca steak.
Next day we were off on a 2-day tour to Colca Canyon, in the hope of seeing condors. On this trip we were introduced to mate de coca - tea made from coca leaves, and supposed to help you acclimatise to high altitudes. En route to the Chivay where we stayed overnight we were to learn the differences between the 4 types of South American camelids - alpacas, llamas, vicunas, and guanacos. We saw many alpacas (farmed for meat and wool) and llamas (farmed for wool and used as beasts of burden). Another animal spotted nearby from the bus was a bounding furry vizcacha (chinchilla?). In spite of a soak in the really hot springs at Aguas Calientes our overnight stop, in Chivay (at 3700m, 12200ft) was rather chilly. However the following day was hot and sunny. The canyon scenery was very impressive, the river far below, and snow-capped mountains above, and in between green terraced hills, and yes, condors soaring high above.
We stopped at a number of villages where the local villagers in colourful costume would pose for photos with an assortment of attractions - baby llamas/alpacas/hawks. At one stop Rosie couldn't resist one of the local hats, covered in colourful embroidery. Our stop in Arequipa was curtailed as we wanted to take the train to Puno, and the service was very infrequent. So 7'oclock on a Wednesday morning found us installed in the trains "Inca Class" carriage. This journey was to prove one of the high points (literally and figuratively) of our visit to Peru. We believe the train is the highest wide gauge one in the world. The highest station was at 4470m (14665ft). The scenery throughout was fascinating as the train wound slowly, first through arid mountains, with views of snow-topped Misti and Chachani (6075m, over 20000ft) stopping from time to time as though to gather strength for the climbs. We saw huge herds of alpacas and llamas. At one point we saw wild vicunas, amazingly, chasing a bushy-tailed zorro andina (andean fox)! We pasted lakes with flamingoes, duck and other birds we didn't recognise, pasted rushing rivers until finally the ever-changing scenes were hidden as the light failed. Scheduled to arrive at 17.40 we eventually arrived in Puno 3 hours late! From Puno we made a coach trip to Sillustani to look at the Inca funerary towers, and here we saw in the local museum a group of 3 mummies as they would have been placed in one of the burial chambers under the towers.
Next day we had a whole day trip by boat on Lake Titicaca, first to the floating reed islands where the Uros people live, then to the rock island of Taquile. The journey on the small motor boat though the reed beds was very peaceful, even more so was the reed boat we had a short ride on, paddled by a local villager. Walking on a reed island was interesting as well as sampling the reeds used in the local diet. The islands have up to about 20 reed houses on them and are sustained by spreading more cut reeds on top as the old reeds get waterlogged and rotten underneath.The weather, after a short rainstorm en route, on Taquile was beautiful, enabling glorious views over the steep terraced hillsides to the Andes of Peru in one direction and Bolivia in the other. Our guide gave us a fascinating explanation of the colourful clothes worn by men and women, and the significance of how they are worn according to age and status. It was interesting to see the women walking around spinning wool on spindles, whilst the men sat or walked around knitting. After lengthy deliberation Rosie chose a multicoloured pair of woollen gloves from the cooperative shop. Although these people accept tourist visitors, the customs and costumes are their way of life and not sustained for the tourists.
And so on to Cusco, where we were most conscious of the impact of tourism: on one occasion we sat the in the main Plaza de Armas and timed the number of hawkers who approached us, approximately one a minute, card-sellers, shoeshine boys, sellers of various artefacts. At times, such as early evening, it became a real pain when every restaurant you walked past would have someone rush out to try to persuade you to sample their food.We stayed in Cusco about a week, and from there took tours of the local Inca ruins, the "Sacred Valley" and, of course, our other highlight, Machu Picchu. To get there it is necessary to take the train from Cusco through 3 hours of spectacular scenery, to the to the town of Aguas Calientes, where we stayed overnight. Next morning we took the first bus (06.30) up an incredible road of multiple hairpin bends to the site. The ruins of the Inca city are extensive, but for us the setting was the most impressive feature. Jim went off on a couple of vertiginous paths which he found most exhilarating. Rosie meantime enjoyed the peace and tranquility whilst surveying the vista of mountains and ruins. An eagle soared high above, lizards scuttled amongst the rocks, llamas munched on the grass below, butterflies fluttered over the profusion of flowers. It was good to be there outside the main tourist season though the wet weather would have made the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu a bit arduous (we didn't have time anyway).
And so, Easter found us, after 4 weeks, still propped up on wooden stilts in the boatyard at the Puerto Lucia Yacht Club. Our absence in Peru, the holiday period, and intermittent rain have made progress on the painting of the boat slow. This has given us the opportunity to catch up on boat maintenance - repairing the electric windlass (again), installing a replacement battery isolator device, remaking the rope to chain splice for the anchor, replacing the bolts attaching the prop shaft to the gearbox, installing improved mosquito screens, as well as routine work on canvas, the engine and other mechanical systems. We should be in good shape for the long haul across the Pacific. We have also been checking on the stores needed for the estimated 2 months from leaving here to the Marquesas. Unwelcome finds in various places were mould, weevils, small brown beetles and cockroaches! Taken together with flies during the day (being hunted by huge dragonflies), mosquitoes and noseeums during the night plus a huge frigate bird trying to land on the wind instrument at the top of the mast, there is a feeling of being besieged! Once the painting is finished we must sit for another week whilst it hardens, but then we will be on our way, first stop the Galapagos Islands about 5 days sailing away.
Ed: Jim and Rosemary have not yet left Equador due to circumstances beyond their control, but I think they will soon be on their way. Both are well, but are champing at the bit to get going)
