Greece
A month to hop westwards across Greece
Click here for a map of the journey.
We took possession of "Avalon" in 2000 in Majorca and by May 2007 when we left Yacht Marine in Turkey, we had the feeling that we were on the home straight of our 7-year circumnavigation. We were aiming to get to Majorca by September so had a fairly tight schedule. Having survived coral reefs in the Caribbean and Pacific, the perils of the Malacca Straits and "Pirate Alley" in the Gulf of Aden, not to mention adverse winds up the Red Sea, you would have thought that Greece would be a doddle. Well here was a surprise! We had visited Greece before on a number of occasions so many of the main archaeological wonders were not on our to-do list. However Rosie had noted a number of lesser sites of interest - the Temple of Aphaia on Aegina, according to guru ("Greek Waters Pilot") Heikell "the most perfectly developed classical temple in Greece", Loutra on Kithnos, where hot springs bubble up on the beach, and the anchorage at Sounion to be in sight of the Temple of Poseidon.
All started well when on May 14 we left Marmaris for an overnight passage to the island of Kos. As dawn broke a sliver of a crescent moon could be seen over mainland Turkey to starboard, the island of Kos to port. We duly booked into the marina in Kos, but could only stay 2 nights as we were in berths allocated for charter boats which were due back. We had a minor setback when we discovered our boat insurance had expired. We made a swift call on our UK mobile to Pantaenius, who were very efficient in faxing our documents, once we discovered the correct number for the office's fax machine. We found the town of Kos to be a pleasant mix of old and new, with many remains of ancient Greece including the tree under which Hippocrates supposedly taught.
So, off towards Naxos. With a strengthening wind we decided to anchor at Ormos Plakoudi on Leros. There we stayed for 4 days whilst the wind howled and the rain bucketed down. One morning after wind from the NE we awoke to find the boat covered in a thick film of mud blown we assume from Turkey! We finally set off for Naxos and actually had good sailing conditions for the 70 mile passage to Apollonia where we anchored in the dark. Next morning we moved round to Naxos town "marina" where we med-moored using our bow anchor, tying up to the concrete dock. We liked Naxos, particularly wandering the winding alleys and archways leading up to the old Venetian castle. Due to time constraints we had decided to visit Thira/Santorini the quick way and so made a day trip via fast cruise boat, the tour including guided visits to the towns of Oia and Fira. Coming into the caldera (the largest active one in the mediterranean) is unique. The eruption which destroyed the island around 1400 years BCE is estimated as being 3 times greater than that of Krakatoa in 1883. The ensuing tsunami is credited with the destruction of the Minoan civilisation on Crete. The views from the crater rim are stunning.
So, time to leave Naxos. We were travelling along with Henry, single-handing on "Chyka", and he made to leave first. Aha! His anchor had caught on one of the underwater chains that were laid to take mooring lines (they either have been and gone, or never arrived). A local man handily came by in his boat and offered to free "Chyka" for 60euros. We had called the Port Police, who had sent along Kostas, so we rejected the local's help. After some time in discussion with Kostas, it became clear that this was a well-known problem, and it was not clear whether we were going to have practical help. Meantime, Jim dived down (snorkel only) into the shallow harbour and managed to free the anchor!
Rosie was keen to stop at Loutra on Kithnos for those hot springs, this was not to be, as on arrival we could see no space at all (we found out later it was a long holiday weekend and locals from Athens were out in force). So, forget those hot springs, onto Ormos Kavia, on Kea. This was a nice sandy anchorage and we had lunch at a beach cafe the next day. Open to the SW, we made the mistake of staying a second night when the wind picked up and we rocked badly. With a decent forecast the next day we headed NW for Aegina (Sounion was not to be). We must have offended Poseidon - the skies darkened, the lightning flashed, the heavens opened, and we were cold - just like sailing back in UK. Eventually the squalls passed and the wind turned SE as we came round the SW corner of the island. We anchored in a pleasant little bay, in Ormos Marathonos. Next day dawned sunny, the water was clear - time for the first swim of the season for Rosie. Then onto Aegina town. The "marina" was full so we med-moored in the harbour using our bow anchor and this time, on reversing, had a slight encounter between the concrete wharf and our wind-vane steering. The town was very pleasant, we got our log stamped by the Port Authority, checked the bus times for a trip the next day to the Temple of Aphaia, went to an internet cafe and so on. Arriving back at the boat, the wind had piped up and put strain on the anchor, and just as the lady was trying to charge us port taxes for a night's stay, the cry went up "the anchor's dragging, we're leaving"! We left quickly and found a big plastic bag had fouled the anchor. After circling a few times round the harbour in a strong and rising cross wind, we decided that there was no way we could reverse back safely into our space. So, into the teeth of the NW wind and waves for a bumpy 5 mile crossing to safety, anchored in the lee of the harbour wall on the NE corner of Angistri. We now had a quandary, what to do about our cruising log? If we didn't get a stamp showing we had left Aegina would we get in trouble at our next port of call? On the other hand we had no desire to sail back to the harbour which had not served us well. The answer was to take the fast "Angistri Express" next morning (5.50 euros return each). In mild trepidation we went to the Port Authority and got our exit stamp. Only then were we asked if we had paid our harbour fees: we explained why we hadn't, and that was OK! What a relief. We celebrated over an excellent and inexpensive meal in a small bar frequented by locals - a Greek salad (of course) and grilled local fish. We carefully checked the weather, stocked up on fresh produce and caught the ferry back to Angistri. Next morning we set out towards the Corinth Canal and anchored late afternoon at Ormos Kalamaki, the anchor once more picking up plastic rubbish at the first try, then holding well on the second.
Next morning, June 1st, found us calling in to the Canal Authorities anticipating a wait, but they suggested we came over. There was already a motor vessel tied to the wharf and the owner took our lines: this was a great help as the wharf was quite high. The young man in the office was very pleasant as he extracted 134 euros for our 11 metres yacht. Almost immediately we were advised to follow the motor vessel and we proceeded against a strong headwind, covering the 3.2 miles in about 1.5hours. Strangely reminiscent of going through the "hole-in-the-wall" in the Wessel Islands off Northern Australia. At Corinth we looked into the "marina" and once more decided there was not a place for us, so we anchored in the shallow corner of Corinth's commercial harbour. We went to the Port Authority, to find that as we were not in the "marina", they did not want to stamp our log nor charge us any money. At this point we should say that the reputation the Greeks have amongst some cruising folk of being unfriendly is quite undeserved. Maybe they do not all greet you with a beaming smile, but then they do have all that ghastly paperwork to deal with. All officials we have met have been civil and most have been friendly and helpful. On the other hand in Greece the term marina is used rather loosely. Apart from Kos which did have all the facilities we enjoy from time to time (toilets, hot showers, internet, shop, cafe, laundry) we found "marina" means "old harbour", and not a lot else.
We found Corinth to be blessed with shops not unlike French patisseries, brimming with all manner of pastries, biscuits and cakes, so we stocked up accordingly as we were headed off the beaten track. We found sheltered and sandy anchorages for a couple of days before arriving at Trizonia, where, amazingly, we were able to go alongside a wharf, probably because it was still early in the season. We were intending to go to either Navpaktos or Missalonghi but unfavourable wind changed our minds. Having passed under the bridge between the Venetian forts at Rion and Andirrion - the longest cable bridge in the world we went to Patras and were very pleased to find the marina had not only laid lines but also someone to hand one to us. For 25 euros we were able to stay for 2 nights (1 night was also the same price!) which included water, electricity, and hot showers. Patras is Greece's 3rd largest city and has all the amenities you might need - cheap internet access, laundry facilities, supermarkets etc. Although a bustling modern city with an incredible number of huge ferries coming and going, there are some traces of earlier occupation to be seen by climbing up to the Castle and Roman amphiheatre. We visited the church of Pantokratoras, a copy of Saint Sophia in Constantinople, during a service - we were the total congregation.
Onto a pleasant anchorage at Ormos Oxias where the anchor held at the second try (very weedy). We were pleased to see pelicans there - our first in the Med. And so to our last anchorage in Greece, in the lovely natural harbour of Vathi in Ithaca, claimed by the locals as the home of Odysseus. We have been here for a few days awaiting the right weather for a passage to Sicily and have watched with interest as other yachts anchor here: as the day progresses a strong onshore wind picks up and several anchors have dragged, usually charter boats with short and light chain. The town is quite small but seems to have all that we require: provisioning, internet and Port Authority (to check out of Greece). The aspect is certainly attractive with verdant mountains surrounding the harbour, and the houses damaged in the 1953 earthquake have been tastefully rebuilt. So our last sight of Greece makes us wish we could stay longer - isn't that always the way?
