South Pacific (part three)
Tahitian Paradise
Click here for a map of Tahiti
There must be something in what the guidebooks say about Tahiti being magical, because we arrived in mid-July aiming to stay just a few days, changed all our plans, and now intend to sail on from here in May 2003. Six weeks have passed almost without realising it and it is only by referring to my diary that I can remember what has taken place since our arrival. What a contrast to the sparsely populated coral atolls of the Tuamotus! Now we are back in the land of roads supermarkets and the other joys of "civilisation". Our anchorage at Maeva Beach was close to Carrefour where we delighted in loading our trolley with all manner of food long denied - creamy brie from France, New Zealand lamb and beef, locally grown papayas, pineapples and aubergines - until we got to the checkout and realised we were back with European prices! To get into Papeete we would hail a passing "le Truck" and ride, along with the local Polynesians, for about half an hour to the downtown waterfront. From there we spent many hours hunting for bits for the boat in the industrial area, catching up with emails at internet cafes, researching flights back to UK and so on.
Having decided to spend the cyclone season here we had to make arrangements for a safe place for the boat to be left, and commenced grappling with bureaucracy to extend our 3 month stay in French Polynesia. Shortly after our safe entry through the pass in the reef around Tahiti, two boats that we had encountered earlier went onto the reef. "Red Poppinjay", a ferro-cement boat, sank on being towed off, and Richard, single-handing at the time, was lucky to escape, but lost everything on board. Russ and Yvonne had to leave their boat "Inkwazi" on the reef and swim to their reserve boat in the middle of the night. Jim got involved in retrieving their possessions from the boat, and later fitments, when it became clear the wooden hull was too damaged to repair. Sobering episodes.
Having missed
the main annual Heiva Festival in July, we took advantage of an event on July
27th at one of the Maraes (sacred sites). This event involved over 500 performers
and included an historical re-enactment in traditional costume, 6 Choirs and
3 dance groups. While we were at the "show" a chap in front on his own gathered
we were English and started interpreting what was going on for us - he was a
tour guide and obviously needed to talk. He also took photos throughout on his
digital camera and referred us to his website where they would be. We haven't
looked yet - he said he had 10 albums.
Have look at: href="http://community.webshots.com/user/polytrad/1">http://community.webshots.com/user/polytrad/1
The Festival winners of the stone-lifting competition and choir and dance events all performed as well. As the sun set and spotlights came on, clouds of smoke drifted across the site to add to the atmosphere - it was a wonderful evening.
Our 37th wedding anniversary passed less spectacularly. In the morning, whilst Jim negotiated for a second hand whisker pole, I did the washing by hand at the water tap on the dinghy dock. In the afternoon we visited the dentist where I received treatment for an infected root. Happily the evening found us enjoying a meal out in Papeete at a pizzeria. We have since sampled chinese food at one of the roulottes on the waterfront - these are vans that are mobile diners: they start serving food in the early evening, customers are seated in the open air and can bring (discreetly) their own drink of choice. Cheap and cheerful!
Apart from a minimum of domestic boat chores, the time has been idled away snorkelling, reading and socialising. Some boats are staying in the area, but most are moving on to be in Australia or New Zealand by the beginning of November when the cyclone season officially starts. So shared sundowners, playing cards and joint meals are lessening as we say "au revoir" to fellow cruisers. Our hope is to meet up with some of them again if our plan to fly to Australia and New Zealand in early 2003 materialises.
We are currently in Morea (Click here for a map) , the next island to Tahiti, researching where to take Barnaby and Cassandra who are coming soon for a few weeks holiday. We first anchored in Cook's Bay, then moved to our current anchorage in Oprinohu Bay. The scenery in both bays is beautiful with dramatic volcanic mountains towering round. By dint of hitch-hiking one day we made it up to the Belvedere for a panoramic view over the volcanic crater to the 2 bays. The walk down past ancient archery platforms and Marae, through pineapple and papaya plantations, and shady woodland, was very pleasant. That evening we were rewarded with the green flash viewed over our rum punch glasses as the sun sank below the horizon.
Weather permitting, we will investigate a few more anchorages here before returning to Tahiti to prepare for Barnaby and Cassandra's arrival - this is a wonderful part of the world and we are looking forward to sharing it with them.
Note: Since this was written, Barnaby and Cassandra have been and come back.
