South Pacific 6

South Pacific (part six)

From Tahiti to Fiji (part two)

Niue - "Rock of Polynesia": 5 July -13 July 2003

To think that at the start of the Grand (Sailing) Plan Niue did not feature as we had never heard of it! This proved to be one of the most interesting and enjoyable places we have visited so far. It is very isolated and is one of the largest upthrust coral atolls in the world. Around the coast are numerous chasms and ravines and caves full of stalagmites and stalactites. We explored many of these and swam in the rockpools, the clear water giving good views of tropical fish including a spectacular lionfish and also the famed Katuali - these are black and grey striped sea snakes which are very venomous but fortunately with mouths too small to bite people.

Ed: Niue - some facts. Closest islands to Niue are Tonga (approx. 370 miles) to the west and the Cook Islands (approx. 670 miles) to the east; Auckland is about 1500 miles away to the south. Known as 'the Rock of Polynesia', Niue is a perfect example of a makatea, or 'raised atoll' island, formed long ago when the coral reef was pushed up by a massive geological upheaval. An island of about 100 sq miles in area, Niue is one of the largest coral atolls in the world. The climate is mild and humid, thanks to the south-east trade winds, an rains a lot. The island's limestone outcrops rise sheer out of the surrounding sea to heights of 60 - 200 ft. There are not many beaches, but many caves and grottoes which make up for it. There are also no rivers on the island, as rainfall simply seeps through the porous limestone and drains into the sea. The Huvalu Forest Conservation Area on Niue's east coast, has preserved some of the tropical forest which is full of spectacular trees and wildflowers, and the birdlife is prolific, despite the presence of feral cats on the island, and includes parakeets, swamp hens and white-tailed terns. Rats and fruit bats are the only native mammals, and other island creatures include coconut crabs and butterflies. Swarms of striped sea snakes (the poisonous katuali) turn diving areas into "something out of a horror movie", but fortunately their mouths are too small to manage a bite. The reef surrounding the island is also visited by tropical fish, spinner dolphins and humpback whales.

We went to a fiafia (feast) one evening at the traditional village of Hakupu. There was a fantastic array including raw marinaded fish, cooked fish of several types, giant coconut crab, chicken, taro leaves with onion, kumara, taro root, banana bread, fresh papaya and bananas. We tucked in before watching a dancing display, performed with gusto by both boys and girls. On another day we went with gentle Misa as guide through the forest on his family's land and we learnt something of traditional ways of living in bush, catching coconut crabs and lighting a fire. The local people were very friendly and the island's informality and relaxed attitude can be seen by 2 incidents. We needed our cooking gas cylinder filled, and brought it to shore, whilst we were hoisting our dinghy onto the dock a man came up to ask if we wanted the cylinder filled, as he was the man to do it. We worked out how much it would cost, he took the cylinder and when we returned later in the day there it was filled, in the dinghy. Dirty washing we left outside the "Seabreeze" Laundry, later the same day it was clean and dry with a note attached giving the cost and the request "please pay at the butcher's shop"! For fresh produce we paid a memorable trip to the national prison where Joseph (one of two prisoners) managed a prolific vegetable garden. He was a very likeable man and furnished us with a profusion of carrots, tomatoes, radish, peppers, lettuce, cucumbers etc. The story goes that he used to be one of the prison guards but got so annoyed with one of the inmates that he shot and killed him, thus becoming a prisoner himself.

Our time in Niue was marked by a couple of sobering incidents. Allen and Julie on "Quintessa" (whom we had met in Beveridge Reef) unexpectedly arrived in Niue the day after us, this was well ahead of their schedule, due to the fact that Allen had been bitten (twice) by a shark whilst snorkelling. We visited him in hospital and were treated to the story, along with a viewing of his chest and bum wounds! Allen had managed to knife the grey reef shark in response, and took the experience in his stride. He is now in Tonga having been discharged from hospital after about a week and is happily diving again.

On July 8 we had a very pleasant snorkel at the Limu pools in the company of a Niuean family. Whilst we were there the husband, a member of parliament, suffered a heart attack, and we later learnt, died on his way to hospital. Although we had only exchanged a few words with him we felt very sad at this tragedy. It reminded us of the fragility of life, how lucky we have been so far, and to make the most of the opportunities whilst we have them! We were delighted when Lilo and Siegfried on "Irama Dunia" arrived from Suwarow (we had not seen them for two months, since Huahine). We thoroughly enjoyed a barbecue evening at the Matavai Resort in their company, along with other German friends on "Me Ne Vado". But only too soon it was time for us to head west to the Kingdom of Tonga. This proved to be our fastest passage ever with high winds and seas to match, about 280 miles in 47 hours, nearly 6 knots average, a record for "Avalon". It was with great relief that we entered the peace and calm of the anchorage at Neiafu having crossed the international dateline.

A Taste of Tonga: 16 July - 7 August 2003

By contrast to the single island of Niue, the Kingdom of Tonga is made up of about 171 islands, in four major groups. We only had time to visit a small number in the Vava'u Group. Neiafu is the capital of this group, and provided us with the opportunity to have hand printed T-shirts made for all our family. We had a happy reunion with Mike and Mary on "Meriva" before they left on their trip back to the UK, kindly taking the T-shirts with them. In spite of being a small town (pop.4000) Neiafu is surprisingly cosmopolitan, a number of foreigners having settled there. Thus we were able to eat excellent food cooked by Gunther (Swiss) at "The Dancing Rooster", buy wholemeal bread baked by Joe (Austrian) at "The Lighthouse Cafe" and have the T-shirts printed by Cindy (American). However, we didn't only give our custom to foreigners - we managed to acquire several woven baskets (to add to the mounting collection) from local people who came out to the anchorage and fruit, vegetables and eggs were bought at the local market. Whilst in the town we were careful to dress very modestly, both Tongan men and women wear long trousers or skirts, the latter often covered by the traditional ta'ovala (pandanus mat). The Tongans can appear a little more aloof than the Niueans, but when walking on the coral reefs looking for shells, our meetings with women collecting cockles, sea cucumbers and the like were all very friendly. The weather was disappointingly wet during our stay but that did not prevent our seeing humpback whales. On each occasion they appeared to be mother and calf, with the adult breaching when a whale watching boat came too close.

Ed: You may have seen an item in the news recently about a whale landing on the deck of a yacht off the Australian coast, and doing considerable damage, the people on the boat reported looking the creature straight in the eye as it slid back into the sea.

Jim, along with other friends, braved the dive into "Mariners Cave". This involved diving down a few feet to swim underwater for 14 feet through a tunnel to enter the cave: a fog appeared and disappeared in the cave with each incoming and retreating wave. Wierd! Following our wild ride getting to Tonga we kept a close eye on the weather to get a good window for the reef-strewn passage to Fiji. And so, on August 6th, we sadly left Cook's "Friendly Islands" with a fair wind behind us. Incidentally, it is said by historians that the locals worked hard to lull Cook into a false sense of security and were disappointed when Cook set sail just as they were about to launch their attack! After 24 hours the fair wind disappeared so we motorsailed the rest of the way with a birthday deadline to meet in Fiji. We broke our normal voyaging alcoholic fast to celebrate reaching 180 degrees: 3 tots of rum for us and Poseidon, as we moved from the western to eastern hemispheres.

We had completed a half circumnavigation and felt a long way from the Greenwich Meridian. A quivering lip was soon uplifted by the strike of a Mahimahi on the line, Poseidon must have enjoyed the rum?

Sixtieth In Suva: 12 August 2003

And so to "soggy Suva" where we arrived on August 11 rather wet after 24 hours rain, to anchor in Suva harbour on the island of Viti Levu. Our first challenge, to check in with the 4 departments of Health, Customs, Agriculture and Immigration, involved a dinghy ride across the harbour to the commercial wharf. There we searched amongst the huge container ships for a means of getting up the 20 foot wall. After about half an hour and directions from several locals, we found the rusting ladder which ended about 4 feet above the (low) tide line. By some monumental effort Rosie made it. "I'm amazed you could do that" said Jim. With the alternative being a long wait in the rain by dark smelly wharf supports with small things skittering about, and something to prove about age, no wonder it was achieved!

The Glorious Twelfth arrived!

Rosie's 60th Birthday.

Cake

With tea brought to me in bed I was able to admire first my present to myself - the tattoo acquired (with much pain) in Rarotonga. Now healed, and an excellent symbol of this point in my life, a scrolling band round my ankle (for all to admire?), with a central turtle (for travel), a dolphin either side (Jim and I) surfing the waves, 3 birds (the offspring), some flowers (land), fish and some Polynesian motifs (Can't wait to see this, Y). Next, a carved ebony pendant of a whale's tail (made in Niue) from Jim. After breakfast, off to the Royal Suva Yacht Club, where, to my delight, much post was awaiting from family and friends.

We had more officialdom to cope with, but not a hassle as the Fijians are very cheery. In fact our time at the Immigration Office (1-2 hours) passed quickly as we looked at all the post. We ate a chinese meal at the modern Harbour Food Court, then spent an hour on the internet retrieving more welcome news and greetings from home. After the purchase of pineapples, papayas and green beans in the extensive market, we collected the lady agricultural inspector and via taxi and dinghy took her to the boat. There was a quick look at our store of bananas and onions (pronouced OK), and some advice on what to do with our rubbish. Then down to the serious discussion - of marriage and children, and a look at my Birthday cards and photos!

During a trip to shore later to have a shower (brrr...no sun so no solar power so cold) I was able to use up a maximum size phone card in a 6 min call to Cass (who had advised me on several cards of a time and place to call). Last but not least I enjoyed dinner on the boat prepared by Jim, cashew nuts (thank you Rebecca) with aperitifs, Mahimahi with green beans, fried mixed sweet and ordinary potatoes. Finally a sticky toffee pudding (thank you Barnaby). Delicious! And so ended the great day, with a message from one of the cards fixed in my mind.......

"Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional"!