South Pacific (part seven)

Friendly Fiji

During the 7 weeks we spent in Fiji we visited only a fraction of the 300+ islands. From Suva on the east side of Viti Levu we sailed north via Gau, Taveuni, and along the south coast of Vanua Levu to Savusavu. Thence west via the Nasonisoni passage and Bligh Waters to the Yasawa Islands. We visited several of these before travelling south and stopping briefly at Malololailai in the Mamanuca Islands. On September 26 we checked out of Lautoka on the west side of Viti Levu, bound for Vanuatu.

With the 180 meridian running through Fiji this is truly where east meets west and is evidenced by the mix of racial groups. Whilst the flavours of Indian foods and music were welcome, their tales of racial disharmony were disheartening. We found the native Fijians very friendly; they showed great interest in us, our travels and English football teams, and we even heard England fondly referred to as "the Motherland"! The down side, in some areas, was the repeated requests for items wanted, from cigarettes, fishing hooks, batteries, T-shirts to, more unusually, lotion for head lice and scabies. It was unfortunate that we were unable to supply the medical items that would have been most beneficial.

Whenever we anchored near the native Fijian villages we visited the local chief to present kava roots for the sevusevu custom. We dressed carefully (Rosie in long skirt and modest T-shirt) no hats or sunglasses, nothing carried on the shoulders and shoes removed at the front door. On each occasion we sat on pandanus mats and had a welcome speech in Fijian from the chief, and afterwards an opportunity to chat and exchange information about our families (we took a small photo album with us). We did try the local 'grog' or yaqona made from kava roots, on one occasion, to no ill effect.

We found Fiji full of contrasts, from the unsophisticated island of Gau to the bustling city of Suva where we enjoyed visits to the museum, cinema (our first viewing of a Bollywood film, in Hindi) and rapid access to the internet. On Gau we visited a village school (no computers) and spoke to two classes of the older children about our travels. We happened to pass by a group of men weaving baskets, when asked what they were doing they showed us the earth oven (lovo) in which they were cooking the food for a 'wake' in honour of a kinsman who had died on "the mainland" (the big island of Viti Levu). The baskets were to contain the cooked food and, in accordance with their custom of sharing, they wove and presented to us a small basket filled with taro and cassava roots and, oh dear, a piece of turtle meat.

From Gau we sailed northeast to Fiji's "Garden Island" of Taveuni, where we enjoyed some beautiful walks in the jungle, swam in waterfall pools, and saw a few more birds than elsewhere in Fiji. Sadly the introduction of the mongoose by the British to control rats in the sugar cane fields led to the decline of local populations of birds, frogs and snakes. On Taveuni we met David, a retired Englishman who dropped out of a round the world sailing rally and has set up house with a delightful young Indian woman and her family. They sell fresh vegetables (you make your choice from the garden) and have great plans for a restaurant. On to Savusavu, a buoyed anchorage with yacht club, laundry, internet and shops. With a potluck supper one night, curry night another and friends there we had met before, it was easy to spend a week socialising, going out to eat, and taking a few beers at the local Planters Club with a trio of local landowners of mixed Fijian and English ancestry. We also admired the use of local resources when we saw half a dozen saucepans in the hot springs containing vegetables for the evening meal of families living near by!

On westwards through coral passes and a night passage across the open Bligh Waters for a few days in the Yasawa Group of islands - beautiful islands but highly populated by cruise ships, including those of Blue Lagoon Cruises operating out of Lautoka (highly recommended by some NZ passengers we spoke to). In the Yasawas we did see a collection of beche-de-mer (sea cucumbers, several species) drying on wire frames, they are still exported from all over the south pacific to China. At Lautoka, back on Viti Levu, we completed yet more customs forms so we could leave Fiji and head for another new country, Vanuatu. Before finally leaving Fiji however we stopped for one night at Musket Cove on Malololailai. This island was bought by a passing English yachtsman about 30 years ago. He has created a delightful resort with small marina and large anchorage to which he welcomes cruising yachts. Much of the island is planted with coconut palms, papayas etc and all is immaculately maintained by locals employed to keep the coastline free of seaborne rubbish.

Of Tanna and Tuna

The 3-day sail from the west of Fiji furnished us with a Mahi Mahi large enough for several days meals, and brought us to Port Resolution on the SE corner of the island of Tanna in Vanuatu. We had been advised that we would have to pay for officials to travel from the official port of entry of Lenakel (on the west side of the island). In the event the customs officer was on holiday for a month so although we stayed for 6 days, we never cleared in. The local people on Tanna are delightful. The Ni-Vanuatu are melanesian, being small and slender with short dark curly hair and in the case of men usually bearded. This was in contrast to the much larger smooth skinned Polynesians we had grown accustomed to. It was hard to believe that cannibalism took place here, Vanuatu's last known cannibal feast took place in 1969. Our main purpose in going to Tanna was to visit Mt Yasur, described as the world's most accessible volcano. We were not disappointed by our late afternoon climb up the ash slopes; we lay on the rim of the crater with ash blowing in our eyes and as darkness fell 3 red lava pools could be discerned glowing through the sulphurous steam, and intermittently a boom preceded a spurt of red hot lava into the night sky. Very impressive. On the Saturday we walked from Port Resolution to Sulphur Bay (about 2.5 hours). Rosie was well armed with an umbrella as a shield from the sun; instead it came into use when the heavens opened. Jim was not so well equipped, a fact noted by a local lady passing with a huge woven basket full of vegetables, who stopped to cut him a large banana leaf - which sheltered him nicely! In fact there was an almost constant procession of people going in the opposite direction to us, who all stopped to shake hands and pass a few words in English or Bislama. They were returning from the village we were going to visit, which is the centre of the John Frum (cargo) cult.

Our main purpose in going to Tanna was to visit Mt Yasur, described as the world's most accessible volcano. We were not disappointed by our late afternoon climb up the ash slopes; we lay on the rim of the crater with ash blowing in our eyes and as darkness fell 3 red lava pools could be discerned glowing through the sulphurous steam, and intermittently a boom preceded a spurt of red hot lava into the night sky. Very impressive. On the Saturday we walked from Port Resolution to Sulphur Bay (about 2.5 hours). Rosie was well armed with an umbrella as a shield from the sun; instead it came into use when the heavens opened. Jim was not so well equipped, a fact noted by a local lady passing with a huge woven basket full of vegetables, who stopped to cut him a large banana leaf - which sheltered him nicely! In fact there was an almost constant procession of people going in the opposite direction to us, who all stopped to shake hands and pass a few words in English or Bislama. They were returning from the village we were going to visit, which is the centre of the John Frum (cargo) cult.

Ed: The people of Tanna had converted to Presbyterianism in the early part of the 20th century, but before the first world war there was an attempt to revive the traditional values. Then in 1942 a large number of men were recruited by the Americans to work at the military bases on Efate, and the sight of war material and black soldiers gave the movement new impetus. A cult hero emerged - Jon from America became know as Jon Frum, and it was said that he would bring wealth from across the sea. The local people adopted the Red Cross (seen on wartime ambulances on Efate) as a symbol for their new religion, and red crosses surrounded by fences can be seen in villages North of Mt Yasur. Priests are called "Messengers" and preach that ships laden with cargo for Man Tanna will soon come escorted by "Jon Frum". The movement believes that money should be thrown away, pigs killed and gardens left untended, since all material wealth will be provided by "Jon Frum". From 1940 the spirit of non-cooperation held by the cult was discouraged by the authorities and led to the arrest of leader, who were held without trial.

On Friday night villagers come from all around to sing and dance the night away, returning home the next morning (some rather red-eyed from too much kava!). The pastor of the Presbyterian Church and his small son met us at the village boundary and (for a contribution to village funds) gave us a guided tour. We were surprised to see the village looking a bit unkempt, the large central area consisting of volcanic ash only sparsely covered with grass. The pastor explained how only two years ago a natural ash dam holding a large lake next to the volcano had burst and the flood waters washed the whole village away. Another strange sight met our eyes beyond the village where a steaming lake was host to women doing washing, as well as children swimming and playing in outrigger canoes. As in other Pacific Islands we were impressed by the language skills of the local people who liaise with yachties. Many speak at least 4 languages fluently. In Port Resolution this was their own language (Narak), Bislama, which is the pigeon English developed by early beche-de-mer traders to make themselves understood around Fiji and the New Hebrides. French which seems to be the official school language for many, and English to talk to yachties and other tourists. They also speak a little of the other local languages, there are over 100 languages in Vanuatu. Other excursions took us by foot to look at the wrecked British yacht "Coker Lady", which went too near the reef at the entrance to Port Resolution earlier this season, by 4WD over the volcano's barren ash plain and lush green mountains to Lenakel (we were glad we had not tried to anchor there when we saw the reefs and swell), and Jim took a dinghy trip to some hot springs to boil an egg!!

On 9 October we bade Tanna a sad farewell but cheered up when a tuna took the lure..fresh fish for tea again!

Ed: We have now heard that Jim and Rosemary reached New Caledonia OK, and after a few days there, set off for the coast of Australia.

top of page